Content Menu
● Essential Tools for Hemming Knit Sweaters
● Preparing Your Sweater for Hemming
● Hand-Sewn Hemming Techniques
● Special Considerations for Different Knit Types
>> Lightweight, Stretchy Knits
>> Ribbed Knits
● Troubleshooting Common Hemming Issues
>> Wavy Hems
● Caring for Your Hemmed Sweater
>> Q1: Can I use regular thread to hem a knit sweater?
>> Q2: How much hem allowance should I leave when hemming a knit sweater?
>> Q3: Is it necessary to use a special needle when sewing knit fabrics?
>> Q4: How can I prevent my knit sweater from stretching out of shape while I'm hemming it?
>> Q5: Can I hem a knit sweater with a rolled hem?
Knit sweaters are a wardrobe staple, offering comfort and style in equal measure. However, finding the perfect fit can sometimes be a challenge, especially when it comes to length. Whether you've purchased a sweater that's a bit too long or you're looking to update an old favorite, learning how to hem a knit sweater is a valuable skill that can help you customize your wardrobe to your exact specifications. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore various techniques for hemming knit sweaters, from hand-sewing methods to machine-based approaches, ensuring that you can achieve professional-looking results at home.
Before diving into hemming techniques, it's crucial to understand the unique properties of knit fabrics. Unlike woven materials, knits are created by interlocking loops of yarn, giving them their characteristic stretch and flexibility. This elasticity is what makes knit sweaters so comfortable, but it also presents unique challenges when it comes to hemming.
Knit fabrics can be categorized into two main types:
1. Stable knits: These have less stretch and are easier to work with. Examples include sweater knits and ponte knits.
2. Stretchy knits: These have more elasticity and require special techniques to maintain their stretch. Jersey knits and rib knits fall into this category.
Understanding the type of knit you're working with will help you choose the most appropriate hemming method.
Before you begin hemming your knit sweater, gather the following tools:
- Sharp scissors
- Pins or fabric clips
- A sewing machine (preferably with a stretch stitch option)
- Hand-sewing needles
- Thread that matches your sweater color
- A pressing cloth
- An iron
- A measuring tape or ruler
- Tailor's chalk or fabric marker
Having these tools at your disposal will make the hemming process smoother and more efficient.
Proper preparation is key to achieving a professional-looking hem. Follow these steps to prepare your knit sweater:
1. Wash and dry your sweater according to the care instructions. This step is crucial as it allows for any potential shrinkage before you hem.
2. Try on the sweater and determine the desired length. Use pins to mark the new hemline.
3. Lay the sweater flat on a clean surface, ensuring it's smooth and free of wrinkles.
4. Measure and mark the new hemline all around the sweater, using tailor's chalk or a fabric marker. Make sure the line is even and parallel to the existing hem or bottom edge.
Hand-sewing is often the preferred method for hemming knit sweaters, especially for delicate or loosely knit fabrics. Here are two popular hand-sewing techniques:
The catch stitch is an excellent choice for hemming knit sweaters because it allows for stretch while providing a secure hold.
Steps:
1. Fold the hem allowance to the wrong side of the sweater and press lightly.
2. Thread a needle with a double strand of thread and knot the end.
3. Working from left to right, insert the needle into the fold of the hem and then catch a few threads of the main fabric about 1/4 inch above the fold.
4. Continue this pattern, keeping your stitches loose to allow for stretch.
The slip stitch creates an nearly invisible hem from the right side of the sweater.
Steps:
1. Fold and press the hem allowance as before.
2. Start with the thread knotted and needle inside the fold of the hem.
3. Take a tiny stitch in the main fabric, just above the hem fold.
4. Slide the needle through the fold for about 1/4 inch before taking another small stitch in the main fabric.
5. Repeat this process around the entire hem.
For those who prefer using a sewing machine or are working with more stable knits, here are some machine hemming techniques:
A twin needle creates two parallel lines of stitching on the right side and a zigzag on the wrong side, allowing for stretch.
Steps:
1. Install a twin needle in your sewing machine and thread with two spools of thread.
2. Fold and press the hem allowance.
3. Sew from the right side of the fabric, keeping the fold of the hem aligned with the edge of your presser foot.
The zigzag stitch is a simple yet effective way to hem knits using a regular sewing machine.
Steps:
1. Set your machine to a medium-width, short-length zigzag stitch.
2. Fold and press the hem allowance.
3. Sew close to the raw edge of the hem, stretching the fabric slightly as you sew to maintain elasticity.
If you have access to a coverstitch machine, this method creates a professional-looking hem similar to those found on store-bought knitwear.
Steps:
1. Fold and press the hem allowance.
2. Align the folded edge with the guide on your coverstitch machine.
3. Sew around the hem, trimming any excess fabric as you go.
Different types of knit fabrics may require specific approaches:
For thick, bulky sweaters, consider using a crochet edge finish. This not only secures the hem but also adds a decorative touch. You can use a crochet hook to create a simple edge stitch around the raw edge before folding and sewing the hem.
For very stretchy or lightweight knits, using a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing along the hem can help stabilize the fabric and prevent wavy hems. Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric before folding and sewing.
Ribbed knits can be particularly challenging due to their high degree of stretch. For these, consider using a stretch mesh tape along the hem edge to maintain shape and prevent overstretching during wear.
After hemming your knit sweater, there are a few final steps to ensure a polished look:
1. Press the hem gently using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric. Use the appropriate heat setting for your sweater's fiber content.
2. If you've used hand-sewing methods, secure your stitches by tying off the thread and hiding the knot within the hem.
3. Trim any excess threads carefully.
4. Give your sweater a final press, paying special attention to the hemmed area to ensure it lays flat.
Even with careful preparation and execution, you may encounter some challenges when hemming knit sweaters. Here are some common issues and how to address them:
If your hem appears wavy or rippled, it may be due to overstretching during sewing. Try:
- Using a walking foot on your sewing machine to feed both layers of fabric evenly.
- Slightly stretching the fabric as you sew to match the natural stretch of the knit.
- Applying lightweight fusible interfacing to stabilize the hem area.
If your stitches are too visible on the right side of the sweater:
- Use a finer needle and thread that matches the sweater color exactly.
- Adjust your stitch length to be slightly longer, which can help the stitches blend into the knit pattern.
- Consider using a blind hem stitch if your machine has this option.
If your hemmed area lacks the necessary stretch:
- Ensure you're using a stretch stitch or a stitch that allows for flexibility.
- Check that your thread tension isn't too tight.
- Consider redoing the hem using a more flexible hemming method, such as the catch stitch for hand-sewing or a twin needle for machine sewing.
To ensure the longevity of your newly hemmed sweater:
1. Always follow the care instructions on the garment label.
2. When washing, turn the sweater inside out to protect the hem.
3. Avoid hanging wet knits, as this can stretch the fabric and distort the hem. Instead, lay them flat to dry.
4. If ironing is necessary, use a low heat setting and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.
Hemming a knit sweater may seem daunting at first, but with the right techniques and a bit of practice, you can achieve professional-looking results at home. Whether you prefer hand-sewing for its precision or machine methods for their speed, there's a hemming technique that will work for your knit sweater. Remember to always consider the specific properties of your knit fabric and choose a method that will maintain its stretch and comfort. With these skills in your crafting arsenal, you'll be able to customize and refresh your knitwear wardrobe with confidence.
A1: While you can use regular all-purpose thread, it's better to use polyester thread or a specialized stretch thread for knit fabrics. These types of thread have some give, which allows the hem to stretch with the fabric without breaking.
A2: Generally, a 1-inch (2.5 cm) hem allowance works well for most knit sweaters. This provides enough fabric to create a sturdy hem while not adding too much bulk. For very lightweight knits, you might opt for a narrower hem of 1/2 inch (1.25 cm).
A3: Yes, it's recommended to use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing knits. These needles have slightly rounded tips that slip between the fibers of the knit fabric rather than piercing them, which helps prevent runs and damage to the fabric.
A4: To prevent stretching, work on a flat surface and avoid pulling or tugging on the fabric as you sew. You can also use lightweight fusible interfacing along the hem area to stabilize it. When using a sewing machine, a walking foot can help feed both layers of fabric evenly, reducing the risk of stretching.
A5: While a rolled hem is more commonly used on lightweight woven fabrics, it can be adapted for some knits, especially finer gauge sweaters. To create a rolled hem on a knit, you'll need to use a very narrow hem (about 1/4 inch or 6mm) and possibly stabilize it with a light fusible interfacing. Experiment on a scrap of your sweater fabric first to ensure the technique works well with your specific knit.
