Content Menu
● Understanding Sweater Fabrics
● Essential Tools for Hemming Sweaters
● Preparing Your Sweater for Hemming
● DIY Sweater Hemming Techniques
>> 1. The Fold-Over Method (No Cutting Required)
>> 3. The Ribbed Hem Technique
● Hemming Knit Fabric: Tips and Tricks
● Sweater Alteration Techniques Beyond Hemming
● Shortening a Cardigan: Special Considerations
● Using a Sewing Machine for Sweater Hems
● Hand-Sewn Sweater Hem Techniques
● Hemming Without Cutting: Temporary Solutions
● Professional Sweater Hemming: When to Seek Expert Help
● Maintaining Your Newly Hemmed Sweater
>> Q1: Can I hem a sweater without a sewing machine?
>> Q2: How do I prevent my sweater from unraveling when I cut it?
>> Q3: What's the best stitch to use when hemming a sweater on a sewing machine?
>> Q4: How much hem allowance should I leave when shortening a sweater?
>> Q5: Can I hem a sweater with a ribbed bottom edge?
Sweaters are a staple in many wardrobes, providing warmth and comfort during cooler seasons. However, finding the perfect fit can be challenging, especially when it comes to length. Whether you've purchased a sweater that's too long or want to update an old favorite, learning how to hem a sweater can be a game-changer. This comprehensive guide will walk you through various techniques for hemming sweaters, from simple hand-sewing methods to more advanced machine-sewing approaches.
Before diving into the hemming process, it's crucial to understand the fabric you're working with. Sweaters are typically made from knit fabrics, which can be categorized into two main types:
1. Woven knits: These fabrics have a more stable structure and are less likely to unravel.
2. Loose knits: These fabrics have a more open structure and can be prone to unraveling if not handled carefully.
Knowing your fabric type will help you choose the most appropriate hemming technique and ensure the best results.
To successfully hem a sweater, you'll need the following tools:
1. Sharp fabric scissors
2. Sewing needles (both hand-sewing and machine needles)
3. Thread that matches your sweater color
4. Pins or fabric clips
5. Measuring tape
6. Fabric marking tool (chalk or washable marker)
7. Iron and ironing board
8. Sewing machine (optional, but recommended for some techniques)
Having these tools on hand will make the hemming process smoother and more efficient.
Before you begin hemming, follow these steps to prepare your sweater:
1. Wash and dry your sweater according to the care instructions to prevent shrinkage after hemming.
2. Try on the sweater and determine the desired length.
3. Mark the new hemline with pins or fabric chalk while wearing the sweater.
4. Remove the sweater and lay it flat on a clean surface.
5. Measure the distance from the original hem to your new marked line to ensure consistency all around.
This technique is ideal for those who want to avoid cutting their sweater or prefer a reversible option.
Steps:
1. Fold the sweater up to the desired length, with the wrong side facing out.
2. Pin the folded edge in place.
3. Using a needle and thread that match your sweater color, sew a loose running stitch along the folded edge.
4. Gently pull the thread to gather the fabric slightly, creating a subtle ruched effect.
5. Secure the thread and knot it off.
This method allows you to easily adjust the length in the future if needed.
For a more permanent solution that removes excess fabric:
Steps:
1. Mark your desired length and add 1 inch for the hem allowance.
2. Carefully cut along the marked line using sharp fabric scissors.
3. Fold the raw edge under by 1/2 inch and press with an iron.
4. Fold under again by 1/2 inch and press to create a clean edge.
5. Pin the folded hem in place.
6. Using a needle and thread or a sewing machine, stitch close to the inner folded edge to secure the hem.
This method creates a clean, professional-looking finish.
For sweaters with a ribbed bottom edge:
Steps:
1. Carefully remove the original ribbed hem by unpicking the stitches.
2. Trim the sweater body to your desired length, leaving a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
3. Pin the ribbed hem back onto the sweater, aligning the raw edges.
4. Sew the hem back on using a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch.
5. Press the seam allowance up towards the sweater body.
This technique maintains the original look of the sweater while adjusting the length.
Working with knit fabrics requires some special considerations:
1. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle to prevent damaging the fabric.
2. Choose a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to allow for flexibility.
3. Test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your sweater.
4. Use a walking foot on your sewing machine to prevent the fabric from stretching as you sew.
5. Avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing to maintain its shape.
While hemming is a common alteration, there are other ways to modify your sweaters:
1. Sleeve shortening: Apply the same hemming techniques to shorten sleeves.
2. Neckline alterations: Reshape the neckline by carefully cutting and re-binding the edge.
3. Adding side slits: Create side slits for a modern look and improved fit.
4. Cropping: Transform a long sweater into a cropped style using the cut and hem method.
These alterations can breathe new life into old sweaters or help you customize new ones to your preferences.
Cardigans present unique challenges due to their open front. When shortening a cardigan:
1. Pay extra attention to the button placket, ensuring it remains aligned after hemming.
2. Consider removing buttons before hemming and reattaching them afterward for a cleaner finish.
3. Use a pressing cloth when ironing to protect delicate knit fabrics.
While hand-sewing is an option, using a sewing machine can provide faster and often more durable results:
1. Set your machine to a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag stitch.
2. Use a ballpoint needle appropriate for your fabric weight.
3. Test your stitch settings on a scrap piece of fabric.
4. Sew slowly and guide the fabric gently, avoiding stretching.
5. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove any mistakes if needed.
For those who prefer hand-sewing or are working with delicate fabrics:
1. Catch Stitch: This invisible stitch allows for stretch and works well on thicker knits.
2. Slip Stitch: Ideal for lightweight knits, creating an almost invisible hem.
3. Blanket Stitch: Decorative and functional, this stitch can add a unique touch to your hem.
Practice these stitches on scrap fabric to perfect your technique before working on your sweater.
If you're unsure about permanently altering your sweater, consider these temporary hemming solutions:
1. Hem tape: Use iron-on hem tape for a no-sew option.
2. Safety pins: Discreetly pin up the hem for a quick fix.
3. Fabric glue: Apply a thin line of fabric glue for a temporary hold.
These methods allow you to experiment with different lengths without committing to a permanent change.
While DIY hemming can be rewarding, there are times when professional help is advisable:
1. Valuable or sentimental sweaters
2. Complex patterns or embellishments
3. Lack of confidence in your sewing skills
4. Time constraints
A professional tailor can ensure a high-quality finish and handle challenging alterations with expertise.
After hemming your sweater, proper care is essential to maintain its new shape:
1. Follow the original care instructions for washing and drying.
2. Store sweaters folded to prevent stretching.
3. Use sweater combs or fabric shavers to remove pilling.
4. Re-block your sweater if it becomes misshapen over time.
With proper care, your newly hemmed sweater will look great for years to come.
Hemming a sweater is a valuable skill that can help you customize your wardrobe and extend the life of your favorite knitwear. Whether you choose a simple fold-over method or opt for a more advanced technique, the key is to work carefully and patiently. With practice, you'll be able to confidently alter your sweaters to achieve the perfect fit and style.
A1: Yes, you can hem a sweater without a sewing machine. Hand-sewing techniques like the slip stitch or catch stitch work well for hemming sweaters. These methods can be just as effective as machine sewing and are often preferred for delicate or loosely knit fabrics.
A2: To prevent unraveling, you can use a few techniques:
- Apply a line of clear nail polish or fabric glue along the cut edge before hemming.
- Use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine just inside the cutting line before making the cut.
- For hand-knit sweaters, secure the stitches by threading a needle with matching yarn and weaving it through the row where you plan to cut.
A3: The best stitch for hemming a sweater on a sewing machine is typically a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch. These stitches allow the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. Some modern sewing machines also have specific "knit" or "sweater" stitches that work well. Always test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before sewing your sweater.
A4: Generally, a 1-inch hem allowance is sufficient for most sweaters. This allows for a 1/2-inch fold twice, creating a clean, enclosed edge. However, if your sweater is very thick or you want a deeper hem, you might leave up to 2 inches. Remember that a bulkier hem can affect the drape of the sweater, so consider the fabric weight when deciding.
A5: Yes, you can hem a sweater with a ribbed bottom edge. One method is to carefully remove the ribbed section, shorten the body of the sweater, and then reattach the ribbing. Alternatively, you can cut off the ribbed section entirely and create a new hem using one of the techniques described in this article. The choice depends on your desired final look and the sweater's construction.
